Valparaiso, Chile

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 Valparaiso, Cerro Bellavista, oil on card, 11 / 9 cm  SOLD

A smallish town, a port, dirty but striking with good old architecture and fine views from the hills above: in short a good painting city.

I spent most of my time in the lower commercial areas of the city and painting some of the many, impressive stucco 19th century very brightly coloured. There are many pleasant squares, though everything is in need of renovation and the whole reminds me very much of decaying Brazilian port towns that I've been to such as Pelotas or Laguna. The port area is very much Tom Waits territory, like so many ports, that air of dilapidation, which at times is very beguiling, at others merely squalid.

 Valparaiso, waterfront, oil on card, 14.5 / 10.5 cm  - available

Of Whistler I see just a little sign:

 Valpariaso, the British Arch, oil on card., 14.5 / 11cm  - available

I didn't work as large as I'd anticipated. For travel the intensity of that postcard size is quite ideal.

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Pelotas: a celebration in photos

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Pelotas is a fine place to spend a few days if you love architecture, specifically of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. The place is in a reasonable state, with some buildings well resored. There is some of the usual Brazillian grafitti and negligence, but it isn't too bad, and it feels generally safe to wander about. The splendid Guarani Theatre (above) has fine sculptures.

The city is founded round a central square and grids deriving from it, on a sight slope.

 

The building of most obvious interest to foreigners, because of its unusualness for Brasil is the Anglican Church, (pictured above) one of three I saw in the Pelotas and Rio Grande and just over100 years old, and recently, rather nicely restored.  The custodian is very pleasant about showing one around. 

 

The central square contains a fountain and a monuments, including this relief celebrating Garribaldi, and an old fellow selling sweets. (below).

There is a rather grand central market featuring this unusual clock tower:

 

The city contains a large number of residential buildings, some in pretentious- or glorious -19th centrury eclectic styles, others are more modest but similarly containing charming details, art noveau or deco, or various combinations thereof:

 

 

 

 

Charming old paving tiles:

I stayed at the abominable Rex Hotel, which is very centrally located, dilapidated, run by sour-faced hags and a fine place for mosquito-hunting, if that is your bag.

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Well, that is a selection of pictures for you: there are many other buildings both modest and grand that I haven't shown.

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The television in room 202 at the Rex Hotel, Pelotas, New Year's Eve, 2010

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The television, Rm 202 at the Rex Hotel, Pelotas, New Year's Eve, 2010 - available

oil/ card, 7.4 x 9.5 cm

I do not reccomend this hotel, which is filthy and run by some extremely surly women. They told me that they do not serve breakfast on New Year's  day because it is a holiday. The rooms themselves are pretty awful, shabbily decorated and with work out furnishings. On New Year's Eve I spend a good hour killing mosquitos and trying to ignore the racket coming from downstairs (karaoke) or adjacent rooms.

As for painting: I did little on this trip. It seemed better to spend my time taking photos. I'll probably do more in the country, later this week, because I'll be moving about much less and therefore in a better frame of mind to paint. If my surroundings are too unfamiliar, painting isn't easy; contrawise, if they are too familiar, a sort of visual boredom ensues and it's impossible to feel any inspiration.

Pochade carriers; Rio Grande do Sul

Above, a collection of pochade carriers which will be used on my trip later this week to Rio Grande do Sul, specifically Porto Alegre, Pelotas and Rio Grande.

As you can see, I shall paint some slightly larger pictures this time.