*
Some thoughts on my trip
Working on bigger pochades- which is something I`ve been pursuing over the last four months or so- works well with the bullying hugeness of North American urban architecture. So for that reason I might well go back. I worked very steadily, getting up early and coming home to cook dinner and watch the USA`s dismal television which consists mainly of adverts for medical products occasionally interrupted by low-intelligence programmes and news about shootings.
I took out very few different paint tubes- five or six. This makes the kit lighter to carry and easier to use. The style I am chasing is about simplicity and speed, not detail.
I enjoyed visiting the USA but, as East Africans say, I enjoyed it but not very much.
A number of things come together for me to say that. Apropos Chicago, the flatness isn`t agreeable, The city turns itself from the lake. It has an endless grid plan which is inimical to walking. Walking matters, it`s a way of connecting with a place, and if walking isn't agreeable or is dangerous , the city usually isn`t worth visiting.
While the food in supermarkets is excellent, cheaper food in restaurants otherwise is relentlessly awful. It isn`t even served on plates or using proper cups. The service system in restaurants - in which waiters are paid a tiny wage and essentially work for tips - makes them both obsequious and annoying. And, of course, if someone is only working for tips, then they are unlikely to do anything that isn`t going to be paid- such as giving directions. The tipping system is dreadful because it makes people petty and mercenary.
A number of things come together for me to say that. Apropos Chicago, the flatness isn`t agreeable, The city turns itself from the lake. It has an endless grid plan which is inimical to walking. Walking matters, it`s a way of connecting with a place, and if walking isn't agreeable or is dangerous , the city usually isn`t worth visiting.
While the food in supermarkets is excellent, cheaper food in restaurants otherwise is relentlessly awful. It isn`t even served on plates or using proper cups. The service system in restaurants - in which waiters are paid a tiny wage and essentially work for tips - makes them both obsequious and annoying. And, of course, if someone is only working for tips, then they are unlikely to do anything that isn`t going to be paid- such as giving directions. The tipping system is dreadful because it makes people petty and mercenary.
People look bad. Almost everyone over the age of forty in Chicago is obese. There is no sartorial distinction between adults, children men or women. They all dress horribly, like giant babies in logo festooned stretchy romper suits. The use of shining white trainers and tube socks is dreadful, especially on older people.
Specifically, black people I met in Chicago were friendly and pleasant. Others were so so. But few people seemed very happy. They weren't that happy in N.Y. either. Perhaps that`s why they often weren`t very personable.
There is an officious way of speaking to people in the USA, and I encountered it in many small situations at immigration and in public transport especially. And they also have a robotic way of giving have a nice day pleasantries- they have a whole series of these vacuous catchphrases- (is there a list somewhere that you are expected to learn?). I spoke to very few people as I was painting in the street in Chicago- this is unusual. New York is much friendlier despite fairly frequent experiences of it`s world-renowned rudeness.
There is a lack, in Chicago, of the sort of idiosyncrasies that make travel amusing- people dressed in individuated ways, shops or cafes serving things which are at all surprising, or people selling curious stuff on the road (the exception being some yard sales I passed). When I was there the huge pop festival, Lolapallooza was taking place and I was struck by the huge number of identikit teenagers streaming down to the park.
There is an officious way of speaking to people in the USA, and I encountered it in many small situations at immigration and in public transport especially. And they also have a robotic way of giving have a nice day pleasantries- they have a whole series of these vacuous catchphrases- (is there a list somewhere that you are expected to learn?). I spoke to very few people as I was painting in the street in Chicago- this is unusual. New York is much friendlier despite fairly frequent experiences of it`s world-renowned rudeness.
There is a lack, in Chicago, of the sort of idiosyncrasies that make travel amusing- people dressed in individuated ways, shops or cafes serving things which are at all surprising, or people selling curious stuff on the road (the exception being some yard sales I passed). When I was there the huge pop festival, Lolapallooza was taking place and I was struck by the huge number of identikit teenagers streaming down to the park.
Of course, much of what I have just written is obvious but almost everything about the USA is very obvious. .
The transport system in Chicago was clean, efficient and pleasant to use. The grid plan, so monotonous- is fabulously easy to navigate. The subway in NY is grim- unclean, badly signed, with few staff.
There are fine parks in Chicago. There are nice old suburbs too.
There is also a huge problem with violence- when I was there in the fist weekend 35 people were shot.
There are fine parks in Chicago. There are nice old suburbs too.
There is also a huge problem with violence- when I was there in the fist weekend 35 people were shot.
Frank Lloyd Wright
I visited two Frank Lloyd Wright buildings- Robie House and Oak Park- both are far smaller than I imagined and somewhat fussily styled. Photographs of these buildings are deceptive. To see these buildings you have to go on guided tours. These are tedious and overpriced.
Pictures
Four Manhattan pochades
Working on bigger pochades- which is something I`ve been pursuing over the last four months or so- works well with the bullying hugeness of North American urban architecture. So for that reason I might well go back. I worked very steadily, getting up early and coming home to cook dinner and watch the USA`s dismal television which consists mainly of adverts for medical products occasionally interrupted by low-intelligence programmes and news about shootings.
I took out very few different paint tubes- five or six. This makes the kit lighter to carry and easier to use. The style I am chasing is about simplicity and speed, not detail.
In West loop, building on Madison (detail)
*
.jpg)
