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Gymshoes
The Soles of my Shoes
You and me have seen everything to see
From Bangkok to Calgary
And the soles of our shoes are all worn down
The time to sleep is now*
These plimsols were bought in Arequipa, Peru, two years ago.
I needed some shoes because my boots had gotten completely sodden in the mountains, and would need some days to dry properly.
Shopping in Peru has a specific aspect, in that instead of a variety of shops in a neighbourhood shops of the same type will dominate totally a particular street, or even a network of streets. So, in Arequipa there are streets which contain only shoe shops and there are dozens of them while other streets consist entirely of ranks of oculists or stationers, and so forth. Obviously this is helpful if you have only one type of purchase to make, because then you can compare many different shops. But if you have a range of things you won't find them in one neighborhood- you`ll have to cross the entire city because each type of shop bunches up with its fellows.
This particular street truly had a huge collection of shoe shops, so many, indeed, that it was quite impossible to imagine how any could possibly turn a profit, especially as the stock sold seemed identical in each, and each store was as much of a jumble as the last.
I selected, randomly, one shop- a salesgirl, wearing an expression of extreme boredom, found it possible to rise from her stool and locate my size in the chaos of the store. I tried them on and have found them to be very satisfactory, despite their not having arch support.
I like very much the way it says "Aster", which means "star" in Greek, and I like how the tread has that geometric design like so many Union Jacks within circles. I guess these shoes are a homage to British sport, probably badminton or tennis in the 20s, and there is a definite air of innocence about them.
I suppose looking at these shoes has a melancholy aspect related to time passing and things wearing down, the sole's condition being a measure of passage. However, despite a couple of years use they have worn down very little, though the uppers are now faded.
I often felt, when travelling, that I was traipsing, a vagabond. I went to paint pictures. I took paints and carriers and brushes and easels. I often went to Peru but also to the USA and North Africa. About 20% the paintings were good. That means of course that many were poor. Failure is essential to success in art as in sport, but it's dispiriting nonetheless.
And often the experience was quite isolating. By your fifties you are going to be quite alone in these experiences. You have to be secure in yourself because the market in paintings is minuscule and there really isn't that much interest in what artists are doing, though I've exhibited and sold enough to at least pay for trips and paints. Nowadays you are never far from a friend online, but it is still good to have a book, preferably nothing too heavy to lose yourself in. The Engish language bookstores in non-English speaking countries often have quite odd selections of books available and it`s fun to read authors that I`d otherwise pass by - Victorians or popular crime fiction, say.
I stayed in Chile for a month in January 2021, in a magical place of volcanos and lakes, immense virgin forests, and then troubled cities where every historic building, every public sculpture, every shop front, pavement, street sign, or flower bed had been vandalised in the name of human rights, covered with posters or spray painted slogans and the universal cliches of agitprop. I started to feel myself sinking.
I felt that alienation in a few places: Bolivia too, and less visited parts of Peru. But I never felt it in New York maybe because of the hubbub and how the Met offers a spiritual refuge especially if you like 19th century art, and the people about you are such that they understand and accept people as individual, and self constructed.
Truly, behind the goal of painting landscapes, I was in search of something to lend life a goal when I wasn't sure it had any. When you travel in a certain backpacker-bum style you can sit in a broken hostel room here or there and think why am I here because you are trying to exist outside the context needed for your life to have meaning. This might be romantic and interesting but it is also quite disturbing, and unless you have mental disciplines, to deal with this you will suffer. You must eschew alcohol and maintain a timetable and not slob around in your mind or in the place you find yourself.
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I'll say that the pandemic forced me, by grounding me, to settle. Unconscious forces acted on me and I found myself one afternoon tidying things away, boxing them and throwing out stuff and an invisible hand directed me to start looking for and eventually buy property too, and move there, in the process discarding two tables, a fridge, a cupboard and piles of old or unwanted clothing.
Men came to the new apartment to replace skirting boards, mosquito screens and taps. I commissioned a huge worktable from an obese Argentinian carpenter and arranged my books and got a kettle which lights up blue when it's heating water. Then came pans and even, for my first time ever, a television, one with a giant screen. I bought and cultivated house plants. I bought floor carpets, new pillows, a standard lamp, a table lamp and re-upholstered chairs and sofas. I bought two carved wooden bowls. I bought t-shirts, shirts, socks, shorts, towels, soaps, shampoos, razors. I bought fish in tins and cucumbers in jars and dried beans in white and red and black and canned peaches
I bought a new computer and thought about another computer. I looked at the cracked screen of my cel and thought of replacing it too.
Often this process has been enjoyable, though with furniture there is a lack of variety in styles available. Almost everything here in Florianopolis is fairly new, and the second hand market is just junky kitchen units and corpulent sofafas made of shiny vinyl, like those in pornographic films. The new stuff sold here can be ok, a sort of twentieth century modern, roughly Scandinavian in mental set: not a style that I find easy to love passionately, as it`s just a bit bland. But it's not bad as a base. I do think the stuff I really like is not suited to modern apartments, being too delicate somehow: I like Danish or English neo-classical.
This process is already winding down, though I might paint a big wall not because it needs it but because it might somehow mean that I have occupied it and it would become more mine. I might paint it green.
I wonder what I might do when this phase of home-creation ends, when the pandemic ends and the world re-awakens, and if with it I'll be launched again into the necessity of travel.
The travelling phase was a response to the emptiness I felt hanging about, the extraordinary boringness of ordinary settled life, which I've felt since I was about ten years of age. That detestable lack of romance in daily life, undoubtedly a sensation exacerbated by close friendships with Tintin and Biggles and some idea of adventurousness that floated in the Scottish air (I'm not sure if it is still felt?). And how settlement seemed, at least where I grew up in suburban Aberdeen, to necessitate abnegation and a superhuman tolerance for tedium.
The sense of asphyxiation that seems so integral to the settlement process will most likely drive me back to make some trips, however alienating they might be.
All that was written two years ago- and now I`m off in a few weeks to Colombia, then Ecuador and if I can take this laptop and teach a bit along the way, and if I successfully sublet my place, perhaps can sustain economically a few months on the road
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Lyrics from "I will follow you into the dark", by Death Cab for Cutie
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Thanks to Astoria Writers' Group for feedback, 18 April, 2021 and Walton Writers 6 May, 2021
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